Photo: Krzysztof Ziarnek, Kenraiz (CC BY 4.0), Wikimedia Commons
Native grasses do two jobs most ornamental lawns cannot: they hold a slope without irrigation, and they read as intentional even when they go dormant and brown for winter. The bunchgrasses and sod-formers here range from buffalograss, bred as a genuine low-water lawn alternative, to alkali sacaton and cordgrass for wet, salty, or alkaline ground where turf simply fails. Cut most of these back once a year rather than mowing weekly, and expect a full, established look by the second growing season rather than the first. Combine a grass with a shade tree from our shade-trees category for a planting that reads as a real landscape, not a specimen bed.
See also: Shade trees, Shrubs.
Photo: Matt Lavin from Bozeman, Montana, USA (CC BY-SA 2.0), Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Harry Rose from South West Rocks, Australia (CC BY 2.0), Wikimedia Commons

Photo: Gordon Leppig & Andrea J. Pickart (Public domain), Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Forest & Kim Starr (CC BY 3.0), Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Andrés González (CC BY-SA 4.0), Wikimedia Commons
Photo: James Schnable (CC BY-SA 4.0), Wikimedia Commons

Photo: Jason Hollinger (CC BY 2.0), Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Matt Lavin from Bozeman, Montana, USA (CC BY-SA 2.0), Wikimedia Commons
Photo: Doug Goldman. USDA-NRCS-NPDT United States, NC, Guilford Co., Greensboro, cultivated. October 21, 2011. (Public domain), Wikimedia Commons
Questions about grasses
Do native grasses need to be watered after they establish?
Most of the grasses stocked here are rated high drought tolerance once established, typically after one full growing season, and need supplemental water only in extended drought beyond their documented range.
When should native grasses be cut back?
Late winter, before new growth starts, is the standard window; cutting earlier removes winter structure and habitat value, and cutting after new growth starts risks damaging the new blades.
